Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

[Area Guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit) It should be noted that the ground level in the cave changes sometimes so some things labelled "sit starts" might not always be sit starts. When the ground is lower it is sometimes possible to either start lower, or to crouch start.

Nose Hill is a large park in NW Calgary. It’s has paved, gravel, and dirt paths with lots of hills, gullies, and large flat fields of native grasses. It is mainly scattered with small boulders but there is one that is big enough to climb on (Turtle Rock). This boulder is midway up a hill and easily accessible from the 64 Ave parking lot. This boulder is relatively easy on the front side but the back has some better surfaces to provide more of a challenge (most likely all climbs will be sit starts). The back side also offers some privacy and some nice grass to sit on. Unlike most of the sandstone in Calgary, Turtle Rock is a solid boulder (maybe limestone?) with a great view of the surrounding!

A beautiful boulder located near the Hidden Valley Campground. A perfect height for bouldering with a fun stem decent, this boulder has something for everyone.

This is one of the classic areas in Lofoten. Easy access.

The Hole in the Wall at Limehouse is a narrow crack splitting the escarpment, with ladders leading down into hidden corridors of limestone. It feels like stepping into a natural slot canyon — tight squeezes, rugged walls, and plenty of features that make you want to chimney, stem, or scramble your way through. It’s the geological heart of the conservation area and one of its most unique spots.

There are tons of boulders out here and many of them have yet to be developed. The rock is the same glassy basalt as the rock in Cyberia but of arguably better quality. The approach is somewhat long, roughly 40 minutes, but it is beautiful. Winding uphill and overlooking Brentwood Bay the approach takes you up to the Malahat viewpoint trail where dozens of massive boulders sit gathering moss. Partially developed around 2009 and then seemingly forgotten there are a multitude of established problems including several excellent highball problems. Unfortunately because of how little traffic this area has seen there is a fair bit of moss on the boulders so anyone trekking out there ought to bring a wire brush! I cannot recommend this area enough. I was blown away when I went up there. It is the same type of rock as Cyberia but arguably better quality and in a stunning location. Interestingly the boulders prevented the logging of old growth forest trees in the area so the boulders are surrounded by massive trees! Don’t let the long hike dissuade you! Get out there! This place should be on everyone’s radar!

From: https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/canada/ontario/south-western-ontario/area/5387488632 Slightly overhung outcrop of surprisingly solid rock and interesting holds, with safe and flat landings. Almost all the problems are sit starts and eliminates (only use the hand holds in the pictures uploaded to each problem) and the foot rail is out of bounds unless stated otherwise. Climbs are labelled left to right facing the wall. Dry in the winter. Seeps during snow melt and wet after rain. Bug spray mandatory during the summer (marsh nearby).

A collection of blocks that sit on a large plateau in the centre of the Boulderfields. he climbing is generally quite powerful, with man lines being short and punchy.

Long blue circuit with mostly easy problems between VB and V2, though some outliers probably go at V3 or V4, especially as sit starts. There are currently (as of the 2025 Tafraout Granite guidebook) 39 recorded boulder problems, but some harder and unrecorded ascents await rediscovery.

Puppy Boulder is a very short boulder with tough sit-down starts to mantle top outs.

The Led Zeppelin boulders are a small cluster of boulders that sit on the Potomac Heritage Trail just north of Windy Run Park.

Small boulder with great little slab problems. Potential for harder sit starts.

Lambs Knoll is a beautiful area that happens to sit partially on BLM land just outside of Zion NP and private property. This unique location has allowed for the development of great sport cragging on highly featured sandstone.