Sources: http://hongkongclimbing.com/blacks-link/ Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe Black Crag is an easily accessible south-facing cliff of enjoyable HK island broken-slab climbing with a fantastic view out over the south of the island. It is two hundred metres below and left of the existing traditionally protected climbing on Blacks Link Outcrop, both easily visible from Blacks Link. Note: Blacks Link Outcrop is the prominent crag with an overhanging nose to the upper right on the skyline. There are known to be two existing traditional routes on Black Crag. Based on available information and the vintage of climbing equipment found in the bushes at the base of the crag, they are presumed to have originally been climbed in the 1970's. The names of these climbs have not come to light, so they are named as ORIGINAL ROUTE and RIGHT HAND ROUTE in recognition of their early ascents. In general, Black Crag is a low grade climbing venue, with the difficulty graded between F5 and F6a for most climbs. As such it is expected that Black Crag will become one of the most popular venues on Hong Kong Island for the ease of access and comparatively large number of similar grade routes adjacent to one another. The rock quality is particularly good, the routes of reasonable length and they are well equipped with marine grade stainless steel bolts and rappel rings.

The Black Flag Sector is a recently developed section of south facing rock established by a huge effort from Ross Suchy. It is located on the main wall on the north side of the access road roughly halfway between the two older sectors Dust Bowl and Moose Patch found on the sunny side of the main valley. Named after the obvious black seepage stain in the middle of the wall that resembles a big black fag hanging over the roofs. On either side of the steep wall there are fun 5.11/12 climbs. The routes in the steep section are burly and long, with rock that is well above average (for Moose standards).

Thighmaster area has a popular namesake boulder problem named Thighmaster V4 but the area also has other test pieces including Black Mark V4.

Black Crag is secreted nicely in the forest just above and left of the popular 5.10 mecca of Leaning Tree. In many ways Black Crag is to 5.8 climbing on Quadra what Leaning Tree is to 5.10. Excellent rock, interesting climbing, strenuous in places but the routes aren't quite as continuous. The rock face has one large, main bulge that the climbs centre around.

This section is split by the massive Central Gully. In the early 1960s, pioneering Alpine Clumb climbers painted numbers at the base of potential lines as was the custom in Europe. This numbering system used the Central Gully as the zero mark and is still visible today.

The Rock: Ranging from slab to overhangs, this rock represents more of the Castlegar goodness you know and love. Lots of unique features allow for steep overhanging routes to go at reasonable grades. The climbing sits about 350m higher in elevation than the Castlegar valley bottom, lending to crisp morning temps even on the hottest days. You can expect the sun to come around at about 1:30 PM. Recent Climbing History: We are still gathering info so we can document past work done by the pioneers. Folks like Gord Lindsay, Shawn Tasker, JT Croston, Cam Shute, Ian Macdonald and Mark Senyk (among many others) have been climbing here for decades. Please contact us with all info that you have. There is significant evidence of prior climbing ranging from old webbing & anchors, to bolts of various vintage. It’s safe to assume that any clean cracks have been climbed. Access has always been the limiting factor until recently. Stephen Senecal and I took a renewed interest in the area in the Fall of 2018, and plans were made to request access. Trail Building to the bluffs began in earnest in Spring 2019, with Castlegar locals Andrew Osnach and Greg Mooney joining to explore the area and route the trail up to the Launch wall. The first new modern sport routes (Arms race 11a and Facepalm 11c) were added to the area a few weeks after. The quality and quantity of the area was immediately apparent. Nic Williams, Jarrad Monger Andrew Osnach, Greg Mooney, Liam Barnes and Keith Story joined the action. Always searching for futuristic lines, Nic Williams discovered the loft in the fall of 2019 (and its amazing horizontal roof flake), and dropped everything to establish this ultra-classic hard sport climb. Much to our surprise, the loft gave way to the highest concentration of moderate climbing at the bluffs (so far). 2020 brought the addition of the Picnic Bluff crags (Hawkeye, Craftbrew and Shadetree Crags). Allen Rollin and Jarrad Monger turned their attention to the obvious mixed lines at the Launch wall. Keith Robine and Nicolas P.I. added some great multipitch climbs. Lots of new sport and gear routes are in development, stay tuned!

Sunset rock is a road side boulder height cliff band that’s about 40’ long with ton’s of old V0-V3 problems all over it. There’s old red paint arrows in some spots still where people used to mark boulder problems. It’s all been climbed 6 ways to sunday so there’s no real point in us logging fa’s. So it’s just a fun spot to cut your teeth on outdoor climbing. You can also traverse the whole wall in the middle to create a longer line that goes at around V4. Enjoy

The rock quality here is the best in the St. George area - basalt with a shiny, slick black desert patina. Holds are mostly pockets with sharp edges. The rock itself is very low friction. The routes are short , 30-40’ on the sunny side and 40-50’ on the shady side. The climbing is very good with something for everyone, both trad and sport and 5.8-5.13. If the routes were longer this would be a destination crag.

a sea of granite spires in the Mount Rushmore area of the black hills

Black Jack Boulders area is one of the two main bouldering crag at Rumney. Home of the Satan's Choice (v12) ultra classic!

The Black Corridor has about 30 routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. The routes are slabby to slightly overhanging. The left side of the corridor gets morning sun and the right side mid day sun. Fun area for beginners or those looking to warm-up for some harder sends.

On the rockslide up and right of the lake at the Black Prince trail. With pads, expect this hike to take about 2 to 2.5 hours each direction; some flagging tape will occasionally fortify your confidence that you're going in the right direction. When at the slide, there is almost no shelter from the sun once it is out. A tarp for shade could go a long way.

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Excellent sport climbing near Banff. The impressive Rainbow Wall, The sunny Punk Wall with great moderates and the amazing stone of the Mind Games Wall are all worth the walk in.. Mostly 5.10-5.12+

Ravens Crag is home to Banff National Parks best water sculpted Limestone. The silver and black streaked walls are very high in quality, offering extremely cryptic, powerful, gymnastic, steep climbing. Expect interesting holds such as small crimps, powerful underclings, pencil pinches, high friction slopers, gastons, flat holds and sharp jugs of the sulphuric stone type. The first pitches are short because they pack such a punch!! The crag was first envisioned in the 90's by Peter Arbic with interesting holds throughout. In 2015-16 routes were all retrofitted with glue-ins as seepage can be a concern at this north facing wall. New development on Fun Club Ledge has popped up two new longer pitches. Alpine feeling indeed, taking in the view from these longer pitches such as Nevermore 12b being Uber classic. The Masque P2 as well as Telltale Heart P2 being the absolute Gem’s of the crag. Mega classic, airy and sandbagged. We recommend Telltale Heart P1 as a warm up. Bring a jacket as the crag stays chilly even in August. Look out for the big old boy, Raven who guards over the crag and enjoy, Banff's best sport climbing. Oh, yeah this is home to one of Canadas hardest climbs. ;)

Some glorious lines here. Nice black basalt rock. Routes are 5.8 - 5.11b.