Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

From Canmore, take the Three Sisters Parkway up past the Nordic Centre to Whitemans Pond. Continue along the gravel road (Smith Dorrien Trail) to the beginning of the Spray Lakes Reservoir. Turn right following signs to West Spray Lakes Campground, continuing to follow the road as it bends left farther into the campground. After 1.5km there will be a large grassy pullout on your right with a sign “Trailhead Parking”, park here. There are two spots to begin hiking. The first can be accessed through the “Trailhead” parking lot by taking the obvious trail leading from it. The second is accessed by walking farther down the gravel road until you see a “no parking” sign on a gate. Follow the trail behind the gate. This is the faster route and will skip a steep hill. The trail winds through the forest following a creek for most of the hike. After approximately 2.5km you enter a rocky clearing with a waterfall on your right and the boulders easily visible to the left. Take the last small section of trail through the band of trees to access the boulders. A trail continues up and right of the boulder field; it leads up to the old goat glacier. Hikers frequent the area to view Old Goat Glacier up in the higher valley.ogistics The total hike time is around 30min. With 200m elevation gain over the 2.5km it makes for an easy hike. Three good sized pads and a decent spotter will let you climb almost all of the problems. More pads will be a necessity on some problems, while very few require less than three. Almost all of the boulders face north, and hardly ever come into sun. Most of the slab climbs get morning sun, and the entire valley becomes shaded around 4-6 PM. Once past the upper Grassi Lakes parking lot, cell reception is lost. So keep this in mind when planning your day. **Please note the campground is closed from mid-September to mid-May** **The hike will be 1.5km or about 20min longer during these times.**

The two cliffs at Beacon Heights (Phase I and Phase II) are located up above the left side of the Main Crag. To access this area, first make your way to the main crag before entering the forest using the hiking path on the far left side. Go past the unofficial latrine (Main Wall Left) further to the point just before the path curves left (if you see a large rock face on the right of the trail you've gone too far). From here take a sharp right and up the steep bouldery hill and follow the faint track, using the fixed ropes when available. Go left and you’ll get out of the forest onto a sandy slope with views of the city, and Phase I will be in front of you. It shouldn’t be more than 10 minutes from Beacon Main to here. Right before entering Phase I, look uphill and to your right and you’ll notice a series of steps carved into the soil, and the first of another series of fixed ropes to reach Phase II. It should be around 5 minutes from Phase I.

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

Past redcliff a few miles, right exit by the barn, cross the bridge, park on the right once the road forks. trail is on the right, boulders on the left after about 5 minute walk

The Far East is the extension of the East Wall running to the right (northeast) into the forest. The main path runs level below Enlightenment then a branch path angles up-slope rightward, levelling out again below a prominent open-book corner with a curved, fallen Douglas Fir tree at its base. At the far right side of the wall is a long, mossy ramp & gully system leading up & right, over several ledges to the top of The Far East & East Wall and links to the Chinese Mountains South Peak Trail near the lookout. Tall trees and a northeasterly aspect make this area fairly shaded, perfect for hot summer days.

Route from left to right: 1.) Megalodon (5.11b/c) - mostly nice climbing on good holds with a defined crux protected by small RPs. FA Tom Wright 2.) Mastodon (5.12a) - another vicious right to left leaning crack - lots of small finger size gear for the crux. FA Paul Mcsorley 3.) Sabretooth (5.12a) - fun steep athletic climbing up the centre of the wall - good protection the whole way. FA Tom Wright 4.) Omnivorous (5.11d) - shares same start as Sabretooth but transitions right into the finger sized flake, hand crack and burly layback finish. FA Tony Richardson

The Sunny Gold Coasts, Premier Sport Climbing crag. A collection of different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls- perched high up off the deck, whatever you're into, Pages has it. Entry Wall: The cliff face on the walk in, ending just before the start of all The Gold Coast sector. This covers ~150m of cliff. The Sun Bowl is visible above this area. The Sun Bowl is the crown jewl of pages. a large orange bowl of excellent water worn volcanic rock about 20m off the deck. Climbs are powerful pumpers all with hard boulder problem cruxes. This is the hardest wall of the crag and a true test of power, capped with wicked exposure over the valley below. There are two belays that routes climb from. These two belays are connected via a fixed rope. To do the routes on the left, ramble up the vegetated Valencia or climb Are We Dancer. To access the right belay, you can climb Tinka Extension, or carefully Traverse across from the left belay station via the fixed rope. The Gold Coast: Sector to the right of the Entry Wall. The most popular sector at Pages Pinnacle. And for good reason! This wall provides every grade with a slab intro section into steep headwalls on excellent quality volcanic stone. The wall tends to be over-bolted so please study topos carefully.... Summit Wall: The big obvious grey and orange overhang at the top, high above Ice Cream Wall. Should produce some nice routes in the 20s in a great position. Lots of potential up here for many more routes. Ice Cream Wall is ~100m to the right of the Gold Coast Wall on the obvious, black and white streaked, gently overhung wall 20m off the deck that comes into view after passing the slabs. Routes tend to be sustained and with bouldery cruxes. Good foot work tends to be the most important factor here! Yorkshire Wall: Walk a further 5 minutes past the previous sectors until you spot an obvious square-cut, left facing pillar. This vertical wall provides excellent on your feet climbing. The Western Wall: The wall facing west that you first walk in (from the lower access location). Shaded in the mornings.

Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

This is a semi-detached wall located in upper Cypress Falls Park, that rises right out of the creekbed itself. There are five climbs on the wall, the leftmost two which have been decommissioned (2022) due to rock fall hazard (the anchor fell right off the top of the cliff). The two right side routes have been retro bolted (2022).

Directions: Walk along the Pleasant Trail until you reach the first of a series of clearings. Watch for signs of rock on your right. The first rock you see on your right will be Bachelor Pad. Once you’re in the forest off the Pleasant Trail the Tesla Boulder will be about 60 meters to your right, there should be a fairly obvious, though scrubby trail.

Approach: Difficult to describe but travel down the same side trail you use to access the Peaceful Atom Boulder. Instead of making a right hand turn, keep walking straight. The trail will go through a mudded area with lots of roots. You will go up a slight rise and then head back downhill. At the bottom of this small rise, make a right hand turn on a side trail and then cross a creek. Walk the trail for a couple minutes and the boulder will be on your right. This wall is maybe 15 m long and definitely has 3-4 lines, but it was too crumbly for the developers to invest a lot of time into. Maybe you will want to develop it or try some climbs. Exercise caution!

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

A 35 meter wall with several quality trad and sport routes. Known as The Dawg Wall, the main climbs start at an intermediate ledge 5 meters up which can be reached via an exposed scramble at the left end or any one of four short bolted starts at the right end. The climbs at the right end can either be done as one long 35 meter pitch from the ground, or a short one to the ledge followed by a 30ish meter pitch to the top anchors.

Sources: http://hongkongclimbing.com/blacks-link/ Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe Black Crag is an easily accessible south-facing cliff of enjoyable HK island broken-slab climbing with a fantastic view out over the south of the island. It is two hundred metres below and left of the existing traditionally protected climbing on Blacks Link Outcrop, both easily visible from Blacks Link. Note: Blacks Link Outcrop is the prominent crag with an overhanging nose to the upper right on the skyline. There are known to be two existing traditional routes on Black Crag. Based on available information and the vintage of climbing equipment found in the bushes at the base of the crag, they are presumed to have originally been climbed in the 1970's. The names of these climbs have not come to light, so they are named as ORIGINAL ROUTE and RIGHT HAND ROUTE in recognition of their early ascents. In general, Black Crag is a low grade climbing venue, with the difficulty graded between F5 and F6a for most climbs. As such it is expected that Black Crag will become one of the most popular venues on Hong Kong Island for the ease of access and comparatively large number of similar grade routes adjacent to one another. The rock quality is particularly good, the routes of reasonable length and they are well equipped with marine grade stainless steel bolts and rappel rings.

Before the first river crossing on the right. Decent spot for 10th and 11th grade climbs. Rock quality is not the greatest - helmets recommended. Multiple new routes put up on the right side of the wall.

Never Never Land is a short wall that is great to bring beginners to. It also has a few more difficult projects to the right of the beginner routes. Never Never Land is the short face to the right of the off-width chimney.

This is the main wall and is located right in the middle of the crag. It is slightly less then vertical. Karate Kid Wall is directly climber’s right of it.

The arête's right-hand side, right next to Bernoulli's principle

12m wall near the South Peak with an open East aspect. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.

Route styles are slabby and technical on the left,, with some overhanging power-endurance routes on the right. The right side of the wall tends to stay wet for longer.

Pranang Beach is a short, overhanging wall with several large stalactites. It is right on the beach, and right next to a sacred cave. Climbing starts on the black section as you step onto the beach. Climbing is prohibited in the Princess Cave.

Farthest right section

This is a small pocket of boulders along the east (right) side of Archangel Valley.

The section of wall just right of the steepest bits (Mayas, Ivys) containing harder routes generally vertical and high quality.

[Access issue and general information, please read](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit#bookmark=id.acwbps8lutkm) There are many boulders spread out in clusters throughout the woods of the Millstream area. Millstream features one of Victoria's best test pieces "Quote the Raven V10" among many other quality problems. Some of them require some searching through the forest but the guide directions should help get you there, linked above. Directions to the general parking, taken from the guide: From the highway head north on Millstream Rd until you get to the powerline cut after the quarry. Park in the pullouts next to the road here to access the west of the road sector.To access quote the raven head past these pullouts and turn right onto Lost Lake rd park in one of two small pullouts right before the end of the road. Hike straight into the power lines via the dirt road at the end of the cul de sac. It may also be possible to approach from Stewart Mountain Rd.

On the rockslide up and right of the lake at the Black Prince trail. With pads, expect this hike to take about 2 to 2.5 hours each direction; some flagging tape will occasionally fortify your confidence that you're going in the right direction. When at the slide, there is almost no shelter from the sun once it is out. A tarp for shade could go a long way.

Dead Hawk Rake is the ramp that provides access to the routes on the Upper Red Tail. The sequence of routes on Lower Red Tail starts just downhill and right of this ramp and extend all the way across the crag to the diminutive Seven Dwarfs slab at the far right end.

The Furthest right-hand side of The Fortress to Red Tail Area. On the same slab right of 'Preface' and 'Mother Superior.' Moderate routes between 5.6 - 5.9 (13 - 25m) in height, which is probably why it is the busiest crag in skaha. Come with a plan B.