The fourth free-standing pillar. Awkward to access. Either use a boat or, if water level is not too high, it may be possible to rap from steel bridge and cross a strip of land to pillar. Exit by ascending rap line or tyrolean from pillar top to bridge. There is also a rusty cable that runs between pillar one and pillar four. You may be able to shimmy along this, but this hasn't been tested.
A massive area surrounding Lake Tahoe with many sub-areas. Tahoe is generally split between North Lake and South Lake, which are around an hour apart by car. Tahoe has a huge amount of bouldering, traditional, and sport climbing, though it's best known for its trad and bouldering. There are currently four bouldering guidebooks (north, south, east, and west shores) and many other guidebooks for trad + sport.
The majority of the climbing at the Giscome Boulders is in the 'Alley' area. It consists of four boulders making up the 'Alley' feature, and 3 more smaller boulders scattered around. The 'Front Alley Boulder' contains the Sun Roof feature, and is located at the front left. The 'Back Alley Boulder' is directly behind it, with the 'Teletubbie', 'Teva' and 'Pat' boulders on the right, named front to back.
A 35 meter wall with several quality trad and sport routes. Known as The Dawg Wall, the main climbs start at an intermediate ledge 5 meters up which can be reached via an exposed scramble at the left end or any one of four short bolted starts at the right end. The climbs at the right end can either be done as one long 35 meter pitch from the ground, or a short one to the ledge followed by a 30ish meter pitch to the top anchors.
This boulder is located at the Rinks At Exeter. It is a solitary large granite block with around two dozen climbs (and variations) sprinkling its four sides, ranging from v0-v8. It is also home to the one of the best and hardest projects left in New England- an amazingly beautiful prow that climbs as good as it looks.
Located in the Calico Basin area, this popular and easily accessible crag has a good range of sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12. With climbing on all four sides, shade can be found at almost any time of day.
Long a favourite with the locals due to its close proximity to Prince George, this crag remains the only game in town. This is not a destination area, and if you have any climbing experience elsewhere whatsoever you will look upon a visit to Evening Rock with a mixture of horror and nausea. Leading is not to be undertaken lightly as the rock on this cliff is anything but the best, and it is not uncommon to have holds break off well-established climbs that have seen numerous ascents. The height of the cliff ranges from four to 12 meters. Access is a contentious issue, and a climber should exercise restraint and caution while visiting this cliff.
12m wall near the South Peak with an open East aspect. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.
The four big boulders all together.
Three-four pitch high, east facing wall that holds long climbs on edgier rock than the rest of the Harrison Bluffs. Bring strong fingers for crimping.
A largish boulder just before the sport climbs. Some overhung moderate lowballs on the south face and a couple of lines on the east face/arete.
Four igneous blocs varying from 8' to 40' in height 15 minute hike along the Carbon river south of Fairfax bridge.
As of 2023, six climbs exist here. Some gear, some sport
Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session
Four different circuits of average quality. The boulder sporting problems Red 4 to 6 and Blue 7 and 8 is very much worth the 10 minutes walk from town.
The Pictograph area, named for the Pictograph boulder that features an ochre drawing of a triangle-headed man/spirit, has the greatest concentration of quality problems in the area. A bit further along the utility access road is the impressive Pictograph Boulder. It’s overhanging downhill face features a pictograph of a triangle-headed man or spirit. The classic Inner Vision (V5) climbs the arete to the left of the pictograph. Brad’s Project Boulder is an obvious boulder jutting out of the talus immediately uphill of Scot’s Cave. The next four problems are scattered between the main areas. The unique problem Aqua (V4) ascends a water- sculpted rail on a small but prominent boulder located immediately above the utility access road, just east of the Pictograph area. Atlantis (V0+) traverses the water- worn lip of a small boulder just past (west of) the Pictograph Boulder, while problems 33 and 34 are on small boulders in the forest immediately uphill of Atlantis.
Nice and quiet with beautiful sightseeing on the lake and hills surrounding. Slabby and technical, there is also several crack systems that will get you to the top in up to four pitches (80m+/-). Facing East, the cliff will loose sunrays around 14:00. Mostly sport climbing and bolted for short falls. Also a few trad routes will keep you interested like the unique roof crack traverse. If you don't own a rack, some cracks have the non-ethical (for some) of being bolted leaving you the option of placing gear or not.
The large hill formation that dominates the skyline at the northern end of Skaha Bluffs has exposed rock on three of its four sides, but unfortunately lacks much in the way of quality climbing. Currently, the best reason to visit this area are to try the steep sport route 'Antaeus' (5.12d), check out the decent 5.11s on Lone Pine Wall or tunnel through the hill's slot-like caves, a rite-of-passage for all Skaha climbers despite being a non-climbing activity. Jericho Wall, the location of 'Antaeus,' is currently seeing new development, which may make this sector more of a destination in the near future. Conditions: The three aspects of Cave Hill have very different conditions: West-facing Jericho Wall gets afternoon sun, south facing Cave Hill Slab bakes for most of the day and east-facing Lone Pine Wall gest morning sun. None of these sectors has a forest at the base so shade is minimal.
This is a delightful shaded little box canyon that lies 30m beyond where the trail heads right up to the rising wall for Morning Side Crag from the creek drainage. The small venue is named after a very “BIG” spider and it’s web that were hanging out back in 2016 just left of what Andy Genereux thought would to be the first climb established at this newer venue. Turned out the route might actually one of the oldest climbs at the Moose Mountain Crags? During the early fall of 2016 the first four routes were established by Andy. Initially out of the gate, was the obvious water polished groove, done on lead with a power drill via rope soloing techniques. The line climbs the right side of the obvious polished water chute. It’s called Itsy Bitsy Spider. According to Allan Derbyshire this climb was actually first climbed on marginal trad gear (graded 5.8, “old school” with a possible ground fall potential) back in the late seventies. There was a lone badly hand-drilled self drive bolt with a homemade hanger at the belay (still in place). Andy thought this ugly badly drilled bolt was a residual anchor leftover from passing ice climbers. Allan also mentioned that the wide moss covered chimney/crack on the left side of the bay was also climbed on gear to reach a two piton anchor at roughly 30m, located below a small roof. Details on this line are few but this wide crack line for now is called Trad Special and is included for a more complete picture of the available climbing at this venue. If this wide gapping dirty crack/chimney appeals then bring a well stocked trad-rack. The remaining climbs established at this venue all went in top down requiring extensive cleaning. The routes were then rope soloed by Genereux while building these lines over two seasons at Spider Brook. All the routes at Spider Brook are located in a shady mostly north facing recessed pocket for much of the year this shady sector sees virtually no direct sunlight. This makes for a good venue to avoid the heat of mid-summer. It houses some nice moderate climbing and is a great place to hang out if one is waiting for the nearby east facing Morning Side Crag to come into shade on blistering hot summer mornings. This is usually around 1:30 pm.
Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17
Similar to the famous "Big Four" of Fontainebleau, completing this list represents a milestone in the quest to become a Parksard.
Four days of climbing with R to start my climbing road trip.