The climbs at Kootenay Crag are all relatively short, but steep, in nature. A sixty metre rope will suffice for all of the climbs; the only exception being if you want to climb one of the two multi-pitch climbs here, and want to rappel, rather than walk off (walking off is the highly recommended option). All of the bolted routes have chain anchors.
Once in Nelson, continue on Highway 3A as if you are heading north to Kaslo – this highway winds its way through Nelson, eventually heading across a large orange bridge that spans Kootenay Lake. A few blocks before you’re about to cross the bridge, turn right on Kokanee Avenue (it’s just past a Dairy Queen). Head up Kokanee Avenue for 2 blocks and turn left on 4th Street. Drive down 4th street for two blocks until you hit Gordon Street – turn right here. Travel a few blocks on Gordon Street and you will start to climb up a big hill – just as you’re going up the hill turn left on 8th Street (which then turns into Bealby Point Road). Continue to drive down Bealby Point Road staying right at an intersection that turns left across the tracks. About ¾ of a kilometre past this intersection, you’ll cross the tracks again – park somewhere along the road here. At this point it’s time to walk – you will be walking north down the tracks.
Follow the railway tracks for 20-25 minutes (keep track of this time) until you come to a large talus slope on your right hand side (there is a minor talus slope just before the large one, so make sure you’re at the right one). There is normally a cairn marking the location of the trail at the bottom right hand corner of the talus slope. Pick you way up through the talus until you top out on an old railway bed (it’s about 100 metres from the railway track). Walk back down the old railway bed for about 50 metres until you see the well used trail up to Kootenay Crag (you will also be able to see the crag). The first climbs start 20 metres up the trail.
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