Show Beta
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Camille: For the top out, get high right foot and lean way over it, trust it and pistol squat -
Zach Y: Just throw for stuff until the lip all the holds are great. Then hit the little crimp rail on the lip with a right hand, plant a solid heel way out right on the good shelf and press hard right into the knee to get the left leg out past where it gets stuck. Then reach up to the little gaston, flip the left hand and it's over. -
colebarber: Did a high heel hook, then right hand triple bump - muscle memory from Gibbs Cave.
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Greg Bauch: Hit the right hand to the shelf, then pump left to the slot.
Recent Sendage:
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Nice movement on very positive holds. Only difficult part was the top out felt a little spicy. -
2023-09-21
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Nice to return to something I tried years ago and have it feel much more doable. Less sun in my eyeballs was the key to the top! Good spots from Kim, Sara, Greg, alejs
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Great boulder! the move to the lip from the pocket is so rad
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Very fun. I guess I didnt read the book because I didnt go right to the shelf first but still followed the line. It made more natural sense for me to follow the crack that comes from the start hold. Got it first try and then did the guidebook “eliminate” way which is to the right shelf first move first try too. Felt soft for the grade but fun. Crux topout -
I did a kneebar in the starting hold to get to the right shelf, which made the move much easier. With this beta it felt more like v5 than v6.
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Wussed out on the T/O onsight. Sussed it out and then it becomes pretty secure. Really good climb !! -
2023-08-16should have flashed but tried to deadpoint the last throw. went on second go
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Favorite of the grade. Really enjoyed the technical mantel ! -
2nd go
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Really enjoyable! Haven't done a mantle crux in a while.
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2023-08-04 -
So rad! Enjoyed working out efficient beta for the opening moves. Couldn't have pushed through that mantle without the squad of Montrealers spotting and yelling ALLEZ!! -
Mantled so hard I cut my chin for the send
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Fun moves on fun holds. Deserves top 100 IMO -
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2022-08-21Great summer day with a good crew -
Straight up gym climbing until the spicy topout that isn't so spicy once you figure it out. -
Super fun boulder! That topout is sure spooky though, haha. Send train with Kai 🎉 -
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First v6 flash! Awesome climb. I think the only reason it’s not top 100 is because there are already so many at the area.
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Great holds. Pretty excellent cut-loose throw to the lip! Did this one in a few tries. -
so fun. 3rd try. -
2021-09-09felt steady when I used my own sequence rather than other people from YouTube. started eating shit on the topout when some insect fell off and started wriggling about in my ear
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2021-09-06
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Fun climb
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Felt pretty easy for a V6
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Found a sneaky kneebar at the beginning. Fun climbing with a hard top out! 2nd go -
2021-08-01Soo awesome!
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Really fun moves! -
What an awesome climb. Everything was pretty casual until the mantle. Definitely was the crux for me, especially in the heat.
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Highly enjoyed this. Undercling start beta changed the difficulty of the start quite a bit
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Sketchy (but fun!) mantle top out.. would recommend good pad placement and/or spotter -
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Switch Crystal Method top 100 for this one. Incredible line.
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3rd go, super fun overhanging climbing on positive holds
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2nd try -
Fun moves leading into a difficult mantel. Fantastic climb!
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2020-09-04
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So so good. Perfect topout!
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Second go, choked the mantel
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Excellent steep line that requires a lot of body tension. Top out was harder than I expected -
Absolutely loved this line. Well worth the hike! -
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Powerful
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A perfect boulder aside from the chossy start holds. Could be top 100 over Phantom Menace I think
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Probably the hottest day I've ever climbed. Glad we could hide under this awesome little problem. Great moves! -
Found some sneaky drop knee beta that saved me from cutting feet
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Gotta love the steepness!
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I love this problem. Big moves, hand throws to foot cuts, a cool pocket, and an exciting mantle. Sad to give up on my date with this rock every two years or so, but glad I don't have to keep reworking forgotten beta for the opening moves. Felt tough, taking the old book grade. -
Super fun climbing. Watched Mara do it first and after failing off the mantle had to really try hard to get it. All the holds are alright but each move was powerful so it felt like a 7. -
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Great climb.
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2017-08-19
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Great problem but felt hard to me, soft v7 anyone??
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Which it wasn't so short, climbs really well. Definitely harder than some other 7s in Squamish -
Granite pocket! -
2017-05-24 -
Try not to cut feet in the beginning. You need strength at the end!
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5 goes after the second break. It feels harder than many v7s in squamish. powerful moves on cool edges. Top out was easy after the right hand crimp beta
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Maybe low-end V7? Atypical steep climbing on edges for Squamish. Use the lightning bolt hold!
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2016-08-20Start holds were broken at this point in time. People seemed to think it was V7 at the time
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Tension throughout the whole climb. Great movement. Powerful. Top out is a little spicy, but thanks Solstice Steve for the beta! Super stoked that Greg and Matt got this as well. Thanks for the motivation!
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From what i understand, the lower start hold broke for a second time (after the book said it got easier). Given that, and the huge reach for me to the shelf, I'll take the original grade.
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It's okay. Little consolation since I CANNOT figure out how to top out The Lion's Den. Ugh, the conditions were horrible! -
Little seepy still but good fun! -
Steep starting which didn't feel particularly difficult. The mantel was a different story (the wet streaks didn't help). -
Love this climb! Super physical with big moves to decent holds.
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2015-08-01
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left exit
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2015-06-13Really should have flashed. Was going to try the simple beta - went with the more complex beta - it didn't work.
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Beautiful
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2015-05-16
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2015-05-16 -
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2014-08-163rd edition says this is V6 now (start hold broke and made it a bit easier). -
Second go, probably v6! Amazing climb
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2013-08-10Took me about 8 tries, Aho flashed it...of course. Would like to come back and do the left variation. Really fun!
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2013-08-04
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2013-07-28
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2013-07-07
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2013-06-07
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sits in the sun on a nice day super awesome climb tough top out moves -
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2012-09-30 -
2012-09-29One of the best, should be top 100 for sure. -
2012-08-30best send train ive ever been on!
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2010-10-02
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2010-09-03 -
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quality problem, used a drop knee for the 2nd move (thx Michelle)
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fun day in paradice!
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HARDDDD!!! V6?
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super-cool the way the holds work out perfectly arranged! Also climbs like a gym climb.
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Super fun climb. The variation which climbs into the miners daughter is excellent as well. Climbs totally different if you start right hand in the pocket instead of left.
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I forgot I did this with ben and brad two years ago, so it shouldn't be on a send list.
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Pretty wet conditions, smooth moves though
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5
onsights23
flashes124
redpointsTotal Sends: 152
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